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||90 Pts David Schildknecht - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate||Size:||750ML
||Carignan / Carinena
90 Pts David Schildknecht - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"Representing the second of two vintages in which he had access to ancient Carignan vines on granite in Trilla (high in the hills west of Belesta and Cassagnes) the Troullier 2007 L'Indigene evokes wood smoke, sweat, marjoram, huckleberry and blackberry, with herbal and smoky pungency allied to crunch of berry seeds serving for invigoration reinforced by slight rusticity of tannin. But there is impressive sheer persistence here and plenty of primary juiciness carrying all the way along. I suspect that this will be best enjoyed through 2017, though its author opines that "it needs two or three more years." - Reviewed Jan 2014
About the Producer:Domaine Troullier
Gilles Troullier comes from the original "school" of Terroir where he has been winemaker and manager at the largest producer in the
Northern Rhone for nearly ten years. He has been responsible for the successes of several high-end Grenache Noir-based wines which have
received top scores and appreciation from the likes of Robert Parker, Decanter, The Wine Spectator, Steve Tanzer, etc. He holds a degree in
Biodynamic Viticulture and Enology and through his years of work and research has become one of the world's references on the science of
mastering mineral and soil expression in the vineyard. His Roussillon wines have great breed, finesse, complexity and follow through.
"I must confess with some trepidation that Gilles Troullier - long well-known (and written about by me) in his capacity as cellarmaster for Chapoutier's Domaine Bila-Haut - has put me in a very awkward position ever since I met him in December 2008. He was happy to let me taste the small volume of wines that he vinified under his own name (and the vin de pays designation Cotes Catalanes), but only on condition that I not write about them. I couldn't resist accepting his terms, and was rewarded with what proved to be (indeed, like those of Bila-Haut) among the finest wines of their region. Earlier this year, Troullier was dismissed by Chapoutier, who took the position that the production of Domaine Troullier represented a surreptitious violation of their contractual relationship. When I visited him this spring, Troullier and his wines had found shelter in a rudimentary cellar in Montner that had been temporarily vacant, to whose sensitivity to summer temperatures he was going to proactively respond by bottling his vintage 2012 reds late this past spring, somewhat earlier in the calendar year than usual. He permitted me to revisit a number of his older wines on this occasion, so that without my resorting to notes taken 3-6 years ago, I could offer you a fuller account of his recent achievements. (Troullier skipped-over 2006 in this mini-retrospective, claiming that those wines were in an awkward state at present; and we could not revisit any of his formerly exciting 2004s because he couldn't locate any bottles in his jumbled temporary stash!) Troullier is doing a bit of new consulting, which he expects to expand - based not only on his long track record of vinous excellence but also of bio-dynamic expertise - as well as to make at least a bit more domaine wine. Near-term, though, there will be a relative shortage of Troullier wine even by his scarce norm, occasioned by his strict standards. He bottled no L'Esprit du Temps from 2010; no Boreal 2011; nor L'Imprevue (his principle white) in either 2011 or 2012, as he felt that conditions - or the wine's fermentative evolution (here always spontaneous) - proved impropitious. He might, however, channel some of those two most recent whites into a remarkable project that I discussed in the introduction to this report, namely a tiny volume of rancio sec, based on Macabeu and mixed Grenache from vintage 2002 but already generously "topped-off" with 2007. Tasted for the first time this spring, it was as remarkably delicious as any Roussillon wine tasted in the last several years - dazzling in its diverse florality, nuttiness and microbiological complexity; but the fact that this bottling does not even have dedicated labels, much less ones indicative of a lot number or bottling date compelled me to refrain from publishing a review. "It's only being sold to people whom I explain it to," quipped its author, perhaps in all honestly. Troullier nowadays favors demi-muids - especially from Austrian barrel-maker Stockinger - for his wines' elevage." David Schildknecht Jan -2014