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||95 Pts Antonio Galloni - Vinous||Size:||750ML
95 Pts Antonio Galloni - Vinous
"Fantino's 2005 Laboro Disubbidiente is a real stunner. Wow. Lavender, violets, smoke, licorice, menthol and sage are some of the notes that take shape in the 2005 Disubbidiente. Like all of the Fantino wines, the 2005 is both translucent yet deep, with remarkable color and flavor intensity, but no sense of heaviness at all. Remarkably fresh and invigorating for a ten-year old wine, the 2005 is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. The 2005 Laboro Disubbidiente is a wine that was originally supposed to be the estate's Riserva. Alessandro Fantino told me he presented the 2005 one day past the deadline for submissions, which meant the wine did not meet all of the official criteria for Riserva status. As such, Fantino had no choice but to declassify the wine, which he did, giving it an ironic name to match. The 2005 spent nearly 4 years in cask, and is a Barolo Riserva from Dardi in all but name."
"The 2005 Laboro Disubbidiente was originally meant to be the Fantino's 2005 Barolo Riserva, but bureaucratic red-tape and a series of miscommunications led to the Fantino brothers missing the deadline to have their wine certified as "Riserva." "Laboro", an anagram from Barolo, pays homage the hard work the brothers put into making the wine. "Disubbidiente" means disobedient, referencing the brothers' act of rebellion against the Barolo appellation authorities by releasing the wine on their own terms under a new name. The label was design by Sergio Staino, an Italian comics artist and writer.
Barolos from Bussia tend to have deep color and rich fruit and while they don't lack the classic tannic structure of Nebbiolo from this part of the world, they are not nearly as hard as the Barolos from the southside of Monforte or from Serralunga. This fact does not preclude the Fantino Baroli from aging but makes them delightfully approachable relatively young. The Fantinos are also blessed with some of the oldest vines in the entire Barolo zone, thanks to the fastidious care given to them by Alessandro and Gian Natale. Planted in 1946 and 1947 and pruned in an old style that is very labor intensive, they produce grapes that would be the envy of any Barolista." - Importer