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||94+ Pts Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate||Size:||750ML
94+ Pts Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"Harvested with 90 oechsle in the last week of October in the old Vols vineyard and picked without any botrytis the white-green colored 2013 Wiltinger Riesling Spatlese Vols II opens with a cool, fresh, limey, very mineral and initially fruit-reduced bouquet (which reveals fine Riesling flavors after a while in the glass), indicating concentration but asking for aeration. Sweet, dense, complex and very piquant on the palate this tightly woven, citric fresh Riesling should be stored at least for 10 years. This is a Riesling you don't care about whether it is dry or sweet because the mineral character is predominant here. This is what I call a real Mosel Grand Cru (or Grosse Lage) wine. It tastes almost dry (at least medium-dry) and delivers its terroir with just 8% of alcohol. It is an expressive Mosel Cru that demonstrates how light and filigreed a wine can be and how much terroir character and mineral depth it can show. A great 2013 Riesling for purists." Reviewed February 2015
About the Producer
"Enter and welcome Helmut Plunien, and his beautiful new/old estate on the Saar. He comes from a recent background as the administrator of big "noble" estates, first in Wurzburg, and more recently closer to his native Saar - in Trier, at the Bischoflichen Weinguter, which us old-timers will remember as one of the venerable Great Names in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Though Plunien didn't go into detail, I surmise his stint in Trier was frustrating, and I further surmise his efforts to innovate and improve quality at the now-moribund property were resisted. At the same time (and maybe to blow off steam) he founded a tiny estate in Wiltingen, and called it "Vols" after a micro-parcel name in the great Wiltinger Braunfels, better-known before the 1971 wine law wiped it (and far too many other names) off the map. But the real breakthrough came in 2009, when he was able to buy the estate Altenhofen in Ayl. Though barely known to Americans, this was a "name" among Saar amateurs, both for its superb holdings in the (Ayler) Kupp but also its holdings in the partly abandoned but still fascinating Schonfels. Plunien, a genial and unpretentious guy you like immediately, calls his cellar philosophy "concentrated doing-nothing." He'd rather not fine or filter and will avoid doing so if at all possible. The wines are spontis, done partly in fuder and partly in steel. In the vineyards he's close to organic, precluded both by the steepness of the terrain and the helicopter spraying. The estate is "6-something" hectares, with plans to grow "but not beyond ten."" - Importer's Notes